Cappellano
History and Background
Cappellano is a cult winery located in the Barolo region of Piedmont, Italy. The winery was founded by Giovanni Battista Cappellano in the latter half of the 19th century. The Cappellano family has been an integral part of the Barolo wine landscape ever since.
The winery gained significant recognition under the innovative leadership of Giuseppe Cappellano, who was a pharmacist before he took over the winery from his father Giovanni. It was under his stewardship in the early 20th century that the famous Barolo Chinato was conceived and developed. Barolo Chinato is a unique aromatized wine that involves infusing Barolo with quinine bark (china calissaja) and a variety of other botanicals, reflecting Giuseppe's pharmaceutical background.
Cappellano's winemaking philosophy is deeply traditional. They are known for eschewing modern techniques in favor of age-old methods, such as long fermentations and aging their wines in large Slovenian oak casks. These techniques aim to preserve the authentic and original expressions of the Nebbiolo grape and the specific terroirs of the region.
Continuing the lineage, Teobaldo Cappellano took over the winery in the 1960s, following the death of his father, Giuseppe. Teobaldo, often called "Baldo," became a beloved figure in the Piedmont wine scene, known for his charismatic personality and strong principles. He was an advocate for natural winemaking and was part of a movement against the use of chemical pesticides and herbicides in vineyards. Importantly, Teobaldo was also a strong proponent of protecting Barolo from excessive commercial influence, famously implementing a no-barcode policy for his wines to challenge the increasing commodification of wine.
Today, the winery is managed by Augusto Cappellano, the son of Teobaldo, who continues the family tradition of minimal intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar. Augusto maintains the estate’s focus on producing high-quality Barolo and Barolo Chinato, along with a few other local varietals, respecting the legacy of his ancestors while subtly incorporating modern insights where appropriate.
Under Augusto's leadership, the winery remains relatively small in production but high in quality, consistently earning accolades for both their traditional Barolo wines and the innovative Barolo Chinato. The continued use of traditional winemaking techniques aligns with their philosophy of crafting wines that are expressive of their heritage and terroir. The definitive characteristic of Cappellano wines is their emphasis on purity, complexity, and ageability, making them highly sought after among collectors and enthusiasts of Piedmont wines.
Vineyards and Terroir
Cappellano's vineyards, encompassing approximately 4 hectares, nestle in the esteemed Barolo region of Piedmont, specifically in Serralunga d'Alba, Italy. Esteemed for its traditional winemaking approach, the estate flourishes in the rich calcareous marl and clay soils, ideal for the cultivation of Nebbiolo grapes. These soils lend a characteristic complexity and depth to the traditional Barolo wines Cappellano is renowned for. Additionally, Cappellano produces the distinctive Barolo Chinato, a unique, aromatized wine variant that encapsulates the innovative spirit maintained within their conventional practices. This estate's commitment to minimal intervention and a traditional approach in the vineyard and winery underscores its reputation in crafting profound expressions of Barolo.
Wine Style and Production
Cappellano's wines, notably Barolo, are celebrated for their extraordinary complexity and elegance, marked by nuanced flavors of tart cherry, dried herbs, and earth, with aromatic undertones of rose, tar, and sometimes anise. Rather than blackcurrant and plum, these are more typical of the Nebbiolo grape used in Barolo wines from Piedmont. The wines are known for their substantive tannin structure, which contributes not only to a robust profile but also significantly enhances their capacity to age.
Winemaking Philosophy: At Cappellano, the approach to winemaking is firmly anchored in traditional methods handed down through generations, with a particular resistance to modern technological interventions. This includes a notable avoidance of standardized yeast, favoring instead natural yeast fermentation. The commitment to expressing the unique features of their terroir is underlined by minimal intervention practices in both the vineyard and the cellar. Vineyard management is meticulous and includes organic practices, though not officially certified, focusing on the health of the vine and the soil.
Influence on Style and Quality: Cappellano's dedication to a low-interventionist approach, including no filtration or fining, emphasizes the purity of flavor and preservation of wine’s individual character. While aging in oak is employed, the use of smaller French oak barrels or barriques is avoided; instead, larger, older barrels are preferred to ensure that the oak influences do not dominate the intrinsic qualities of the Nebbiolo grape. This technique, combined with their rigorous vineyard management, enables Cappellano to produce wines that are not only powerful and poised but are also esteemed for their profound longevity and expression of terroir.
Reputation
Cappellano is a highly respected cult wine producer situated in the Barolo region of Italy, particularly noted for its staunch dedication to traditional winemaking methods. This enigmatic estate has cultivated a cult-like following amoung true believers who appreciate its artisanal and non-commercial approach. A defining characteristic of Cappellano is its policy, instituted by Teobaldo Cappellano in the 1980s, of refusing to allow wine critics to score its wines. This decision underscores the estate's conviction in the subjective nature of wine appreciation and highlights the importance it places on individual experience over numerical ratings.
The winery is especially renowned for its limited production of the "Pie Franco" Barolo, crafted from ungrafted vines. These rare vines provide a connection to the pre-phylloxera era, offering wines of considerable complexity and depth that vividly express the unique terroir of the vineyards.
Final Thoughts
Cappellano is a cult wine producer based in the Barolo region of Italy, revered for its steadfast commitment to traditional winemaking methods. The estate, currently under the guidance of Augusto Cappellano, continues to uphold the values instilled by the late Teobaldo Cappellano. This stewardship includes a notable policy: the prohibition of wine ratings and reviews by critics, underlining a philosophy that wine should be experienced personally and valued as an agricultural art rather than merely through commercial assessments.
Cappellano’s Barolos, particularly the distinguished 'Pie Franco', which is crafted from ungrafted Nebbiolo vines, are celebrated for their intricate complexity and profound depth, embodying the quintessence of the territior’s expression. With the 'Pie Franco', Cappellano revisits ancient vigneron traditions, offering a unique glimpse into a bygone era of winemaking traditions.