Cappellano
Summary
Cappellano is a historic family-owned Piedmontese estate in Serralunga d'Alba, producing limited quantities of structured Barolo from their prized Gabutti cru vineyards, where calcareous clay soils shape their distinctive Nebbiolo expressions. The winery maintains staunchly traditional methods—employing long macerations and large Slavonian oak aging—while their principled stance against wine scoring systems has paradoxically enhanced their cult status among collectors seeking authentic connections to Piedmont's winemaking heritage.
Heritage & Leadership
Cappellano stands as one of Piedmont's historic wine estates, with roots dating back to the late 19th century. Founded by Filippo Cappellano in Serralunga d'Alba within the Barolo region, the estate has remained in family hands throughout its existence, maintaining a commitment to traditional Piedmontese winemaking.
The estate's modern identity was significantly shaped by Teobaldo Cappellano (often called "Baldo"), who led the winery until his passing in 2009. Teobaldo became known for his principled approach to winemaking and his notable stance against wine scoring systems, famously refusing to allow critics to publish numerical ratings of his wines.
Today, Augusto Cappellano, Teobaldo's son, continues the family legacy as the current proprietor. Since taking the reins following his father's death, Augusto has maintained the estate's traditional winemaking philosophy while guiding Cappellano into its current chapter.
Vineyards & Wines
Cappellano's vineyards are situated in the Serralunga d'Alba commune, an area known for producing structured Barolo wines. Their most significant holding is in the Gabutti cru, where hillside vineyards feature the calcareous clay soils characteristic of the Barolo region. While the estate operates on a modest scale, likely under 10 hectares in total, their focus remains on quality over quantity.
The estate's flagship offerings are their Barolo wines, produced entirely from Nebbiolo grapes as required by DOCG regulations. Their portfolio includes a traditional Barolo from the Gabutti vineyard, showcasing the distinctive character of this specific terroir. Perhaps their most distinctive wine is the "Pie Franco" (or "Piè Franco") Barolo, produced from ungrafted Nebbiolo vines—a rarity in a region where most vines are grafted onto American rootstock.
Beyond their Barolo production, Cappellano crafts Barbera d'Alba and a unique fortified Chinato wine based on a traditional family recipe. This Barolo Chinato, infused with herbs and spices, represents a continuation of Piedmontese winemaking traditions that might otherwise be lost to time.
Philosophy & Practice
Cappellano's winemaking approach is firmly rooted in traditional methods that have defined Barolo production for generations. In the cellar, they employ long maceration periods to extract structure and character from the Nebbiolo grapes, followed by aging in large Slavonian oak casks (botti) rather than small French barriques that would impart more pronounced oak influence.
The estate practices minimal intervention throughout the winemaking process, avoiding modern techniques that might alter the traditional character of their wines. This philosophy extends from the vineyard through to bottling, with an emphasis on expressing the authentic character of their terroir and grape varieties.
Teobaldo Cappellano's principled stance against wine scores represented more than a marketing position—it embodied a philosophy that wines should be appreciated for their individual character rather than compared through numerical ratings. This independent spirit continues to inform the estate's approach under Augusto's leadership, maintaining Cappellano's position as a standard-bearer for traditional Barolo production.