Szepsy
Summary
Szepsy is a boutique family winery in Hungary's Tokaj region, producing under 30,000 bottles annually from 60 hectares of predominantly volcanic soils, with a dual focus on single-vineyard dry Furmints and traditional Aszú sweet wines. Their meticulous approach includes extremely low yields, multiple harvest passes, indigenous yeast fermentation, and extended lees aging, continuing a winemaking legacy that dates to the 16th century and includes their ancestor who produced the first documented Aszú wine in 1631.
Heritage & Leadership
The Szepsy family's winemaking tradition in Tokaj, Hungary dates back to the late 16th century, with documented family involvement in the 1630 classification of the Tokaj vineyards. István Szepsy Sr., born in 1951, established the current iteration of the family winery in 1987, initially working within the constraints of Hungary's communist system before expanding after the political changes of 1989. The family's historical significance is anchored in their ancestor Szepsy Laczkó Máté, who according to Tokaj historical records, produced the first Aszú wine in 1631.
István Szepsy Sr. has been instrumental in rebuilding Tokaj's reputation following the communist era, when quality was often sacrificed for quantity. His son, István Szepsy Jr., joined the family business in the early 2000s, bringing formal oenological training to complement his father's traditional knowledge. Together, they manage all aspects of production, maintaining direct oversight of vineyard management and winemaking decisions. Under their leadership, the winery has focused on expressing the distinct terroirs of Tokaj through both sweet Aszú wines and dry Furmint bottlings.
Vineyards & Wines
Szepsy manages approximately 60 hectares of vineyards spread across the villages of Mád, Tarcal, and Bodrogkeresztúr within the Tokaj region. Their holdings include parcels in several first-class classified vineyards, including Szent Tamás, Úrágya, and Betsek in Mád, and the historic Király vineyard in Tarcal. The vineyards sit at elevations between 200-400 meters above sea level, featuring predominantly volcanic soils with varying mixtures of rhyolite, andesite, and clay.
Furmint constitutes approximately 70% of their plantings, with Hárslevelű making up most of the remainder, along with small amounts of Yellow Muscat and Kövérszőlő. Many of their vineyards contain older vines, with some parcels dating back 80-100 years. The winery produces a range of wines including single-vineyard dry Furmints, late harvest selections, and traditional Tokaj Aszú wines in 5 and 6 Puttonyos designations. Their production remains deliberately limited, with annual output typically under 30,000 bottles, allowing for meticulous attention to each vineyard block.
Philosophy & Practice
The Szepsy winemaking philosophy centers on minimal intervention coupled with rigorous selection. In the vineyards, yields are kept intentionally low, often below 1 kg per vine, to concentrate flavors. Harvest involves multiple passes through the vineyards, with pickers selecting only optimally ripened clusters or individual berries for Aszú wines.
For dry wines, Szepsy employs gentle whole-bunch pressing followed by fermentation in oak barrels, primarily Hungarian oak with some Austrian and French barrels. Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts, and the wines typically age on fine lees for 6-9 months. For their Aszú wines, the traditional method is followed: individually harvested botrytized berries are macerated in base wine or fermenting must before pressing and extended barrel aging of 2-3 years.
The winery practices sustainable viticulture with an emphasis on building soil health through cover crops and minimal chemical inputs. Vineyard work is predominantly manual, including pruning, canopy management, and harvest. This labor-intensive approach reflects István Szepsy's core belief that exceptional wine can only come from perfectly ripened, healthy grapes that accurately express their specific vineyard site. This site-specific focus has led to their pioneering work in single-vineyard bottlings that highlight the diverse terroirs within the Tokaj region.