Dominique Lafon
Summary
Dominique Lafon guides his family's historic 14-hectare Burgundian estate in Volnay, producing approximately 40,000 bottles annually of primarily Chardonnay from exceptional Meursault premier cru sites and Pinot Noir from Volnay's finest parcels across limestone-rich soils. His pioneering commitment to biodynamic viticulture since 1995, minimal-intervention winemaking philosophy, and meticulous techniques—from indigenous yeast fermentation to gravity-flow systems—have established his wines as definitive expressions of Burgundian terroir.
Heritage & Leadership
Dominique Lafon represents the fourth generation of his family to manage Domaine des Comtes Lafon, one of Burgundy's most significant estates. The family's wine heritage began in 1894 when Jules Lafon, Dominique's great-grandfather, married Marie Boch, whose family owned vineyards in Meursault and Volnay. Dominique officially took over management of the family domaine in 1987, succeeding his father René Lafon, who had overseen operations since the early 1960s.
Under Dominique's leadership, the domaine has undergone significant transformation. In 1995, he made the decisive shift to organic farming practices across all vineyard holdings, later transitioning to biodynamic methods and receiving Ecocert certification in 1998. Beyond his work at the family estate, Dominique established his own separate venture, Domaine Dominique Lafon, in 2007, focusing on vineyards in the Mâcon region. His influence extends internationally through his consulting work with Evening Land Vineyards in Oregon's Willamette Valley, which began in 2007.
Vineyards & Wines
The Comtes Lafon estate encompasses 14 hectares of vineyards, primarily concentrated in Meursault where they hold parcels in premier cru sites including Perrières, Genevrières, Charmes, and Goutte d'Or. The domaine also owns plots in Meursault Désirée, Meursault Narvaux, and the grand cru Montrachet, where they possess 0.32 hectares. For red wine production, their holdings include parcels in Volnay premier crus Santenots-du-Milieu, Champans, and Clos des Chênes.
Dominique's personal project, Domaine Dominique Lafon, focuses on 5.5 hectares in the Mâcon region, with vineyards in Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine, Mâcon-Uchizy, and Mâcon-Chardonnay. The soils across these holdings vary significantly, from the limestone-rich parcels in Meursault to the clay-limestone compositions in Volnay. Vine age averages between 30-60 years across most parcels, with some older plantings dating to the 1950s.
The domaine produces approximately 40,000 bottles annually, with Chardonnay comprising 70% of production and Pinot Noir making up the remaining 30%. Their most recognized wines come from the Meursault premier crus, particularly Perrières, which grows on shallow, stony soils at 280 meters elevation with southeastern exposure.
Philosophy & Practice
Dominique Lafon's winemaking philosophy centers on expressing vineyard character through minimal intervention. In the vineyards, he implements biodynamic practices including the application of herbal preparations and adherence to the lunar calendar for vineyard operations. Mechanical weeding replaces herbicides, and cover crops manage soil health and vigor.
For white wine production, Dominique employs whole-cluster pressing followed by settling of the must for 24 hours before transferring to oak barrels for fermentation. He uses indigenous yeasts exclusively and ages his white wines in French oak barrels (25-30% new oak for premier crus) for 18-22 months. The wines undergo regular bâtonnage (lees stirring) during the first winter, then are left to settle before bottling without fining or filtration.
Red wine production involves careful sorting, partial destemming (typically 70-80% destemmed depending on the vintage), and a pre-fermentation cold soak lasting 5-7 days. Fermentation occurs in open-top wooden vats with gentle punch-downs rather than pump-overs. Aging takes place in French oak barrels (30-40% new for premier crus) for 18 months before bottling without fining and with minimal filtration only when necessary.
Dominique has implemented several technical innovations, including a vertical press installed in 2002 that allows for gentler pressing cycles, and a gravity-flow system introduced in the winery in 2010 to minimize pumping and mechanical handling of the wines.