Clandestin
Summary
Founded in 2016 by Bertrand Gautherot and Benoît Doussot, Clandestin is a small-scale biodynamic Champagne producer in the Côte des Bar, crafting primarily Pinot Noir-based wines from Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils. Their minimalist approach includes indigenous yeast fermentation, extended lees aging, and low dosage, establishing them as influential newcomers whose terroir-driven, single-vineyard expressions represent the vanguard of artisanal Champagne production.
Heritage & Leadership
Clandestin is a relatively new addition to Champagne's artisanal producer landscape, founded in 2016 as a collaborative project between Bertrand Gautherot and Benoît Doussot. Gautherot, already established as the proprietor of the respected Vouette et Sorbée estate, partnered with Doussot, his former assistant winemaker, to create this focused venture. The name "Clandestin" (meaning "hidden" or "secret" in French) reflects both the project's initial under-the-radar nature and its location in the less prominent Aube department of Champagne, specifically in the village of Buxières-sur-Arce in the Côte des Bar.
The partnership combines Gautherot's deep understanding of biodynamic viticulture with Doussot's winemaking precision. While Gautherot maintains direction of his original estate, Doussot manages the day-to-day operations at Clandestin, applying the philosophical framework they share while developing his own distinct expression of the terroir.
Vineyards & Wines
Clandestin focuses on a small portfolio of single-vineyard, single-variety champagnes that highlight the distinctive terroir of the Côte des Bar. Their primary vineyard sites are located around the village of Buxières-sur-Arce, with parcels featuring the region's characteristic Kimmeridgian limestone and clay soils—the same geological formation found in Chablis.
The domaine works primarily with Pinot Noir, which thrives in the Côte des Bar's climate and soil conditions, along with some Chardonnay. Their flagship cuvée, "Les Semblables," comes from a specific Pinot Noir parcel, while "Les Grandes Vignes" showcases Chardonnay grown on Kimmeridgian soils. The "Boréal" cuvée represents another expression of their Pinot Noir vineyards.
All vineyard work follows biodynamic principles, continuing the practices Gautherot established at Vouette et Sorbée. The vineyards are certified biodynamic by Demeter, reflecting their commitment to this farming philosophy.
Philosophy & Practice
Clandestin's approach to winemaking centers on minimal intervention and terroir expression. Grapes are harvested by hand and pressed in a traditional vertical press. Primary fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, with no chaptalization, filtering, or fining. The wines undergo complete malolactic fermentation and are bottled with minimal sulfur additions.
The champagnes are aged on their lees for extended periods, typically between 24 and 36 months depending on the cuvée, before disgorgement. Dosage is kept minimal, typically in the Extra Brut range, to preserve the pure expression of the fruit and soil.
Clandestin's production remains deliberately small, allowing for meticulous attention to each parcel and bottle. This limited scale reflects their focus on quality and precision rather than volume. Their winemaking philosophy emphasizes transparency—both in their methods and in how the wines express their origins—creating champagnes that serve as clear reflections of the Côte des Bar's distinctive terroir.