Chartogne Taillet
Summary
Chartogne-Taillet is a historic family estate dating to 1683, farming 11 hectares of diverse sand, clay, and limestone soils in Merfy (northern Montagne de Reims), where Alexandre Chartogne crafts terroir-driven Champagnes from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and historical varieties. Each vineyard parcel receives individualized attention—some worked by horse—with separate vinifications using indigenous yeasts, parcel-specific aging vessels, and minimal intervention throughout the process to authentically express Merfy's distinctive terroir.
Heritage & Leadership
Chartogne-Taillet's roots in Champagne's Merfy village date back to 1683, making it one of the oldest family estates in the northern Montagne de Reims. The domaine has remained in family hands for over three centuries, with each generation contributing to its development and preservation of Merfy's viticultural heritage. The current steward, Alexandre Chartogne, assumed leadership in 2006 after working alongside his parents, Elisabeth and Philippe Chartogne, who had managed the estate since the 1970s.
Alexandre's path to leadership included formative training with Anselme Selosse in Avize, an experience that profoundly influenced his approach to viticulture and winemaking. This apprenticeship marked a turning point for the domaine, as Alexandre returned with a deepened understanding of soil microbiology and terroir expression. Under his direction, Chartogne-Taillet has undertaken comprehensive soil studies of Merfy's vineyards, reviving knowledge about this historically significant but often overlooked terroir in Champagne.
Vineyards & Wines
Chartogne-Taillet cultivates 11 hectares of vineyards exclusively in the village of Merfy, located in the northern reaches of the Montagne de Reims. These holdings comprise a mosaic of parcels with distinct soil compositions—primarily sand, clay, and limestone with marine fossil deposits that reflect the area's geological history. This diversity of terroir within a relatively small geographical area provides the foundation for the domaine's vineyard-specific approach.
The estate grows Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier as its primary varieties, with small plantings of historical Champagne grapes including Arbanne and Petit Meslier. Each vineyard parcel receives individualized attention, with some worked by horse to minimize soil compaction. Notable single-vineyard cuvées include Les Barres, from ungrafted Pinot Meunier vines planted in 1952 in sandy soils, and Orizeaux, from Pinot Noir grown in clay-limestone soils. The domaine also produces Les Couarres, Heurtebise, and Chemin de Reims, each expressing the particular characteristics of their respective sites.
Philosophy & Practice
Alexandre Chartogne's winemaking philosophy centers on transparent expression of Merfy's diverse terroirs. This approach begins in the vineyard with site-specific farming practices tailored to each parcel's soil composition, exposure, and microclimate. The domaine emphasizes soil health through cover cropping and limited treatments, focusing on preventative measures rather than interventionist solutions.
In the cellar, Chartogne-Taillet ferments each vineyard separately, primarily using indigenous yeasts. Fermentation and aging occur mostly in oak barrels, with some parcels in stainless steel or concrete, depending on the character of the site. Alexandre avoids systematic fining and filtration, preferring to let each wine develop naturally. Dosage levels are determined individually for each cuvée, typically kept minimal to preserve site expression. The domaine's production methods combine traditional Champagne techniques with thoughtful innovations, such as extended lees aging for certain cuvées and exploration of solera systems for reserve wines. This meticulous approach from soil to bottle has established Chartogne-Taillet as a reference point for terroir-driven Champagne from the distinctive soils of Merfy.