Zarate
Summary
Bodegas Zarate is a seven-generation family winery operating 10 hectares in Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, where they craft primarily Albariño wines from vines aged 35-150 years in decomposed granite and sandy soils. Under Eulogio Pomares' leadership, their winemaking combines traditional methods with extended lees aging—up to 30 months for single-vineyard expressions—showcasing Albariño's remarkable aging potential and terroir expression that has helped elevate the entire region's reputation.
Heritage & Leadership
Bodegas Zarate was established in the 1920s by Ernesto Zarate in the Val do Salnés subregion of Rías Baixas, Galicia. The winery gained early recognition when Ernesto organized the first Albariño festival in 1953 and removed his wines from competition after winning three consecutive years to allow others a chance at recognition. Today, the estate represents seven generations of winemaking tradition in the region, with Eulogio Pomares currently at the helm as both owner and winemaker. Pomares took over operations in the early 2000s, continuing the family's dedication to traditional Galician viticulture while implementing thoughtful modernizations in the cellar. Under his direction, Zarate has maintained its focus on site-specific expressions of Albariño, preserving many of the region's oldest vineyard plots in the process.
Vineyards & Wines
Zarate's vineyards are situated throughout Val do Salnés, the coolest and wettest subzone of Rías Baixas, located near the Atlantic coast. The estate manages approximately 10 hectares divided among several parcels, with vines ranging from 35 to over 150 years of age. Their most notable vineyards include El Palomar and Balado, both containing pre-phylloxera vines planted on their original rootstock. The soils consist primarily of decomposed granite and sand with varying levels of organic matter, providing excellent drainage despite the region's significant rainfall. Vines are trained in the traditional pergola system (known locally as parral), which elevates the canopy to improve air circulation in this humid climate. While Albariño dominates their production, Zarate also maintains small plantings of indigenous red varieties including Caiño, Loureiro Tinto, and Espadeiro, used in their limited red wine offerings.
Philosophy & Practice
Zarate adheres to traditional viticultural methods with minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar. Their approach includes hand harvesting, native yeast fermentations, and extended lees aging for their signature Albariños. Eulogio Pomares employs plot-by-plot vinification to preserve the distinct characteristics of each vineyard site, using primarily stainless steel tanks for fermentation and aging, though some wines see time in neutral oak foudres. The winery avoids malolactic fermentation to maintain the natural acidity that defines their style. Harvest typically occurs in September, with careful sorting both in the vineyard and at the winery. Their production methods emphasize long aging on fine lees, with their single-vineyard wines often spending more than 30 months developing complexity before bottling. This patient approach to winemaking results in Albariños with pronounced mineral character and significant aging potential, challenging the common perception of the variety as solely for immediate consumption.