Gomez Cruzado
Summary
Gómez Cruzado is a boutique winery operating from its historic 1886 headquarters in Rioja's Station District, producing primarily Tempranillo-based wines from diverse vineyard holdings across all three Rioja subzones with their varied soils and microclimates. Under winemakers David González and Juan Antonio Leza since 2008, this lesser-known Centenary Bodega balances traditional Rioja aging categories with single-vineyard expressions through plot-by-plot vinification and sustainable farming practices, offering exceptional quality that often flies under the radar compared to its more famous neighbors.
Heritage & Leadership
Gómez Cruzado was established in 1886 by Ángel Gómez de Arteche, a nobleman from the village of Baños de Ebro in Rioja Alta. The winery stands as one of the historic "Centenary Bodegas" in Haro's prestigious Barrio de la Estación (Station District), a neighborhood that developed around the railway station in the late 19th century when Rioja's wine trade was expanding rapidly following the phylloxera crisis in France.
In 2008, the winery underwent a significant transition when David González and Juan Antonio Leza, both experienced winemakers with deep roots in Rioja, acquired ownership. This change marked a pivotal moment in the bodega's trajectory, as the new leadership implemented a comprehensive revitalization program while maintaining respect for the winery's historical significance. González serves as the technical director and winemaker, while Leza focuses on vineyard management and viticulture.
The winery's headquarters remains in its original location in Haro, housed in a classic Rioja-style building that reflects the architectural heritage of the region's wine industry. Throughout its history, Gómez Cruzado has maintained a modest production scale compared to some of its neighbors in the Station District, allowing for focused attention on vineyard-specific wines.
Vineyards & Wines
Gómez Cruzado's vineyards span the three subzones of Rioja: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. This geographical diversity provides access to different soil types and microclimates, which the winery leverages to create distinct expressions of Rioja terroir. In Rioja Alta, their vineyards benefit from Atlantic climate influences and clay-limestone soils. The Rioja Alavesa plots feature chalky-clay soils on terraced slopes, while their Rioja Oriental vineyards grow in alluvial soils with Mediterranean climate conditions.
The winery focuses primarily on Tempranillo, which constitutes approximately 80% of their red grape plantings. Additional varieties include Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo (Carignan), and Viura for white wines. Their vineyard management emphasizes low yields and careful canopy management to achieve optimal ripeness while maintaining acidity and freshness.
Gómez Cruzado's portfolio is structured around two main collections. The Terroir Selection showcases specific vineyard sites, including Montes Obarenes (white) and Pancrudo (Garnacha from high-altitude vineyards in the Sierra de la Hez). The Classic Range adheres to traditional Rioja aging categories: Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. The winery also produces Cerro Las Cuevas, a single-vineyard Tempranillo from a high-altitude plot in Rioja Alta.
Philosophy & Practice
Under González and Leza's direction, Gómez Cruzado has adopted a philosophy that balances respect for Rioja traditions with modern precision in winemaking. Their approach centers on minimal intervention in the winery, allowing vineyard character to express itself clearly in the finished wines.
Fermentation takes place in a combination of stainless steel tanks and oak vats, with capacity calibrated to enable plot-by-plot vinification. For aging, the winery employs French oak barrels of various sizes, including 225-liter barriques and larger 500-liter puncheons, selecting the vessel size based on the character of each wine. Their Gran Reserva follows traditional extended aging protocols with a minimum of two years in barrel and three years in bottle before release.
In the vineyard, Gómez Cruzado implements sustainable farming practices, including cover cropping to improve soil health and biodiversity. Harvest is conducted manually in small crates to ensure grape integrity during transport to the winery. Upon arrival, grapes undergo a rigorous selection process on sorting tables before processing.
The winery's technical facilities have been modernized to incorporate temperature control during fermentation and gentle handling techniques such as gravity flow movement of wine. This technical precision allows for both the production of site-specific wines that reflect individual terroirs and the maintenance of the classic Rioja aging hierarchy that has defined the region's wines for generations.