Ao Yun
Summary
Ao Yun is LVMH's pioneering high-altitude wine project in China's Shangri-La region, cultivating 30 hectares of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards at 2,200-2,600 meters along the upper Mekong River to produce approximately 2,000 cases annually of their flagship Bordeaux-style blend. The winemaking combines traditional local farming practices with modern techniques under French oenologist Maxence Dulou, whose innovative approach to extreme viticulture has quickly established Ao Yun as China's first internationally recognized ultra-premium wine producer since its 2013 founding.
Heritage & Leadership
Ao Yun was established in 2013 by Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirits division of luxury conglomerate LVMH. The project emerged after an extensive four-year search across China led by Jean-Guillaume Prats, then President of Moët Hennessy's Estates & Wines division, and Australian oenologist Tony Jordan. Their exploration culminated in the discovery of the remote Shangri-La region in northwestern Yunnan Province, where they identified exceptional viticultural potential at extreme altitudes.
From its inception, Ao Yun has been under the winemaking direction of Maxence Dulou, a French viticulturist and oenologist with previous experience in Bordeaux and South America. Dulou relocated to Yunnan in 2013 to oversee all aspects of this pioneering venture. The name "Ao Yun" translates to "flying above the clouds," referencing the vineyard's position at elevations where clouds frequently form below the mountain slopes.
The first commercial vintage was 2013, released globally in 2016. This marked the emergence of China's first internationally recognized ultra-premium wine from this Himalayan region. In 2019, Ao Yun opened a dedicated winery facility in the village of Adong, consolidating production operations that were previously distributed across multiple locations.
Vineyards & Wines
Ao Yun's vineyards span approximately 30 hectares (74 acres) distributed across four villages—Adong, Shuori, Xidang, and Sinong—in the Deqin County of Yunnan Province. These vineyards are situated at elevations between 2,200 and 2,600 meters (7,200-8,530 feet) along the upper Mekong River, locally known as Lancang. The extreme altitude positions the vineyards among the highest in the world for Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation.
The vineyard parcels are fragmented across 314 individual blocks on steep terraced slopes, primarily facing south and southwest. This orientation maximizes sun exposure in a region where the surrounding mountains significantly reduce direct sunlight hours. The soil composition varies across the villages, featuring a mix of sandy, clay, and limestone soils with underlying granite and schist bedrock, providing good drainage and mineral content.
Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the plantings at approximately 90%, with Cabernet Franc comprising the remaining 10%. The vines, mostly planted between 2002 and 2006 by the local government before Moët Hennessy's involvement, benefit from the region's unique climate conditions. The high altitude creates significant diurnal temperature variation, while the mountains shield the area from excessive rainfall during the growing season, resulting in approximately 250 sunny days annually.
Ao Yun produces a single flagship red blend, with annual production limited to approximately 2,000 cases. Beginning with the 2017 vintage, a second wine called Xiao Yun ("Little Cloud") was introduced in limited quantities.
Philosophy & Practice
Ao Yun's approach combines traditional local farming methods with modern winemaking expertise. The vineyards are farmed through partnerships with approximately 120 local families from the four villages, who maintain traditional viticultural practices largely without mechanization due to the steep terrain. This labor-intensive approach includes hand harvesting and transporting grapes by backpack from the most remote parcels.
The extreme altitude creates distinctive growing conditions: reduced atmospheric pressure results in more intense ultraviolet light exposure and approximately 30% more oxygen deprivation for the vines compared to sea-level vineyards. The growing season extends significantly longer than in traditional wine regions, with up to 160 days from flowering to harvest, allowing for slow, complete phenolic ripening while maintaining fresh acidity.
In the winery, Dulou employs a minimal intervention philosophy adapted to local conditions. Fermentation occurs in small batches using concrete tanks and amphorae. The aging program typically involves 10 months in clay jars (to respect local tradition) followed by 14 months in new and used French oak barrels. Due to the high altitude affecting oxygen levels, the winemaking team has developed specific protocols for fermentation management and aging.
Temperature control presented initial challenges, as the original winery spaces lacked electricity. This necessitated innovative approaches, including the use of traditional cellars and natural cooling methods. The completion of the dedicated winery facility in 2019 has addressed many of these early logistical challenges while maintaining the commitment to expressing the unique terroir of this Himalayan region.